OLD FAITHFUL
The most popular destination in the Park in winter is the Old Faithful area, where the Snow Lodge is the center of activity. It's the base of operations for cross-country skiers and snowshoers, and the end point for most snowmobilers. The appeals of the area are the same in the summer as in the winter; if you think Castle Geyser or Old Faithful is spectacular in the summer, just wait until you see it in the winter.
 
For most, West Yellowstone will be the jumping-off point for visitation to the Old Faithful area. Many stores and hotels remain open in West Yellowstone throughout the winter season, making it a solid base for a visit. Outfitters in the area will be happy to rent you a four-cycle snowmobile approved for Yellowstone use (and serve as the mandatory guide), while Xanterra runs two different kinds of snowcoach service between Old Faithful and West Yellowstone. For those on a schedule, a 6:30 a.m. and a 1:30 p.m. snowcoach runs out of West Yellowstone on an express schedule, arriving in West Yellowstone at 8:30 a.m. and 3:45 p.m., respectively. An express snowcoach leaves West Yellowstone at 8:30 a.m. and arrives at 10:45 a.m. For those wanting a more leisurely ride, a snowcoach leaves at 7:30 a.m. and arrives in West Yellowstone at 10:30 a.m. and then returns at noon.
 
Xanterra also runs snowcoaches between Old Faithful and Grand Tetons' Flagg Ranch, with a run at 8:30 a.m., returning at 12: 30 p.m.
 
You will want to plan ahead if you want to snowmobile in the Park. There are many restrictions on sledding: you need to use an approved four-cycle sled and you must have a guide. Snowmobiles are limited to the groomed Grand Loop Road; you can't duck off the road and into the backcountry. In addition, there's a limit of 318 snowmobiles daily in the Park. On most days that's not a problem, but it could be during a popular holiday like Christmas or New Year's.
 
Taking a snowcoach into the Park is a unique experience. Most of the snowcoaches operated by Xanterra are renovated Bombardier snowcoaches, updated to run more efficiently. They make for some pretty cramped quarters: aside from the two front seats, passengers are seated in a U-shaped bench. The snowcoach drivers are pretty good about explaining the terrain and slowing down for scenery or wildlife. You won't need to get out of the snowcoach to get a good look: a gate on the top of the snowcoach opens up, so you can stand and see the action. It takes several hours to reach Old Faithful from Mammoth, but it's worth the time.
 
At Old Faithful, the emphasis is on cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Some of the trails through the geyser areas are groomed for cross-country skiing, though you can snowshoe next to these trails as well. It's a good terrain for cross-country skiing: the trails are mostly level, and there's usually enough snow make it a worthwhile experience. If you don't want to cart your skis all the way to the Park you can rent a pair at the gift shop at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge. And bring your boots: the back trails aren't always groomed or plowed, but they are accessible on foot thanks to the heat from the thermal features.
 
Concessionaire Xanterra has put a lot of work into making Yellowstone National Park more accessible in the winter. Our first winter trip to Yellowstone was a bare-boned trip, to say the least: the snowcoach dropped you off at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge, and that was about it. Today Xanterra has scheduled snowcoach service to several different groomed ski trails across Yellowstone, including the Fairy Falls area, DeLacey Creek and the Canyon area (where the 1-mile Bridge Trail is perfect for beginners and the 4.5-mile Canyon Rim Trail geared for advanced skiers). There are other excursions for photographers, as well as a Norris Geyser Basin snowcoach excursion from Mammoth. At night, you can relax with ice skating, time in the hot tub, or a massage. You can view a list of all excursions here.
 
For those wanting a guided experience, Xanterra offers five different packages with access off the beaten path, whether it's viewing wolf in the Lamar Valley or skiing back into the Grand Canyon area. You can view the program listings here.